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Germination of
Seeds Planted on Porch 11-6-04
This page was last updated 11-27-04.
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Germinated 11-9-04:
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Lettuces: 'Quensland', 'Simpson Elite', 'Cimmaron',
'Olga', 'Redina', 'Freckles'
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Arugula
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Radicchio 'Rossa di Chioggia'
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Radish 'Rattail'
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Chard 'Bright Lights'
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Kale 'Red Russian'
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Broccoli di Rapa 'Novantina'
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Collard 'Top Bunch'
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Kohlrabi 'Kolibri'
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Mustard Greens 'Red Giant'
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Roselle
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Cosmos 'Sensation Mix'
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Zinnia 'Giant Dahlia Blue Point Mix'
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Zinnia 'California
Giant Pink
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Germinated 11-10-04:
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Kale ‘Nero di Toscana’
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False Roselle
/ Cranberry Hibiscus
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Marigold ‘Lemon Star’
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Sunflower ‘Apricot Twist’
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Cucumber ‘Diva’
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Cucumber Cornichon ‘Cool Breeze’
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Arugula R. selvatica
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Germinated 11-11-04:
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Beets ‘Action’
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Tomato ‘Striped German’
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Tomato ‘Tropic’
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Tomato ‘Sausage’
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Tomato ‘Sungold’
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Lettuce ‘Nevada
Greenleaf’
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Lettuce ‘Summer Mix’
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Turnip ‘Red Milan’
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Sunflower ‘Vanilla Ice’
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Chard ‘Rhubarb’
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Carrot ‘Uberlandia’
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Tomatillo Purple (2)
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Germinated 11-12-04:
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Tomato ‘Sweet Chelsea’ (both 1999 & 2003
seed)
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Tomato ‘Kewalo’
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Tomato ‘Yellow Pear’ (1999 seed)
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Tomato ‘Opalka’
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Tomato ‘Italian Gold’
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Tomato ‘Equinox’
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Tomatillo 2” Yellow
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Calabaza ‘La Primera’
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Potato ‘Zolushka’
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Peppergrass
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Germinated 11-13-04:
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Watermelon ‘Black Tail
Mountain’
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Watermelon ‘New Orchid’
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Italian Edible Gourd Cucuzzi
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Onion Bunching ‘Crimson Forest’
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Onion Bulbing ‘Super Star’
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Lettuce ‘Slo-Bolt’
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Germinated 11-14-04:
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Watermelon 'Mini Jubilee'
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Eggplant 'Bride'
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Tomato 'Black Prince'
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Tomato 'Homestead'
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Germinated 11-15-04:
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Pepper Small Hot Perennial
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Moringa 'PKM-1'
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Germinated 11-16-04:
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Pepper Sweet ''Carolina
Wonder
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Germinated 11-18-04:
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Pepper Sweet 'Feherozon'
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Papaya 'Sunrise
Solo'
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Germinated 11-22-04:
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Pepper Sweet 'Chocolate'
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Germinated 11-24-04:
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Pepper 'Pasillo Bajio'
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Pepper 'Mulato Islena'
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On 11-13-04, several of the larger seedlings were thinned and
transplanted to 5" pots or larger-celled flats and placed outside in
the sun so they would not get leggy, as they do on the screened porch. The
Cucumbers will stay inside their entire lives, climbing nylon trellis under
the screen, but everything else should eventually go outside. Also, the
remaining seedlings were thinned to one per cell or pot, except the Squashes,
which will spread out when transplanted into the ground.
On 11-27-04, the transplanted seedlings were moved again - a couple of
Rattail Radishes, most Zinnias, and some Sunflowers to the Tropical Vegetable
Area, most Sunflowers and all Moringas and Watermelons to the Melon Patch,
and the Cosmos, Kohlrabi, three red Mustards, and a few Zinnias to empty
spots in the Potager. Three Rattail Radishes went into the Herb Circle.
All the Tomatoes - fourteen of them - were transplanted up to their
first real leaves into 1-gallon pots, the Chards and Kales and a couple of
Broccolis went into long planters, and into 10-gallon pots went four
Broccolis (2 to a pot), and three red Mustards in another. Also, two Coconuts
from a friend went into 10-gallon pots. The peppers were transplanted into
5" pots, along with the False Roselle, Eggplant, yellow and purple
Tomatillos, and Collards. The small, sweet Tomatillos were still very
tiny and not all were up yet, so they stayed in the flat, as did the Onions,
Cleome, and Marigolds. Many of these last flowers have not germinated
yet, and the others are very small. I've pretty much given up on the
remaining pepper seeds, but will still leave them in their flat, just in
case.
The pre-sprouted seeds rotted, as they were neglected in top of the refrigerator
because I was not well. The Bulbing Fennel is the thing I was most
interested in, so will probably just plant them in empty spaces in a flat and
see how they do, as they do not have to be pre-sprouted to germinate.
As for the direct-seeded plants in the Potager, there were some gaps
where things either didn't germinate or were eaten by something, but mostly
there are too many plants. The greens and beans have tried to take
over, shading out some of the other plants. But the squashes have gotten
large in their own right anyway, and we have been harvesting beautiful
radishes for about a week now. Gaps have been filled, as noted above.
It all looks a bit wild, but should be productive. Some thinning
will have to be done to allow more delicate things space to grow without
competition. It might actually be better to plant a bed like this with
nearly all transplants, spacing plants properly from the start, but this
would not give the quick coverage which has kept weeds down so well. On
the other hand, it is difficult to know just what each thing is when it
germinates if everything is all mixed together. I should have sown less
thickly, but it should be alright with some judicious thinning.
The entire garden, front and back, was fertilized on 11-27-04 with a
mixture of Alaska
fish emulsion and Maxicrop dried seaweed. This should have been done
earlier, but in any case, all the plants will appreciate it.
Tasks Still to Be Done: There remain only setting up support
systems for the climbing and sprawling plants. Nylon trellis needs to
be hung for the Cucumbers, and soil and teepees installed in large pots
outside for the tomatoes. Peppers may need short stakes, which can be
placed when they are transplanted to their final containers.
I bought most of my herbs for the
season from Jane's Herbs & Things,
but whatever was unavailable there can be started anytime now from seed in
the Speedling trays (things like Sweet Marjoram, Borage, Summer
Savory, and Winter Savory). To get pots for transplanting
into, and a little color into the Herb
Circle, I bought two trays of tall Snapdragons
in white, pink, and purple and scattered them in the herb beds.
I now have seeds of 'Imperial Star' Artichoke and 'Reugen' Alpine
Strawberry, which will be pre-chilled along with any Celery
seed I have left. I hope to do this between 11-28 and 12-01. This process is
the same as pre-sprouting above, except that the bagged seeds in their paper
towels will be put in the freezer. This should last at least two weeks
for the Artichoke seeds, and about two months for Strawberry and Celery.
After that, the tiny Strawberry and Celery seeds will go on top of the
refrigerator to pre-sprout, but this is unnecessary for the large Artichoke
seeds, which can be planted in pots directly after their stint in the
freezer. This pre-chilling process causes the seeds to believe they
have gone through a winter, and the dampness and subsequent warmth will wake
them up, resulting in good germination and more flowers and fruit.
Alpine Strawberries are perennials and will live a few years for you if
you place them in partial shade when the weather begins to heat up, then deep
shade for the hottest part of the summer. Bring them back into partial
shade or even full sun once the weather breaks in fall (usually mid-October
here). Artichokes should be given a 4' space in the ground and won't
last more than a season. Celery is an annual vegetable that grows well
here in the cool season if it gets a regular, plentiful supply of water.
If I had any Tulip bulbs, this would be the time to place them in a
plastic bag in the refrigerator for a couple of months. The plastic bag
keeps the ethylene gas from any fruit in the refrigerator during that time
from killing them. If you have a second refrigerator, you can get
fancy, potting up the bulbs in soil, watering it, and setting the whole
shebang in it. You can even chill things like Asparagus crowns
and Peony crowns this way. Doing this will get you one blooming
only from the Tulips, after which you can eat the bulbs or throw them away.
The Peony should bloom, but would have to be returned to the
refrigerator for another chilling the next year, and you might have trouble
keeping it alive until then in our heat. Same with the Asparagus.
You can decide if these measures are worth the effort to you. The
bulbs and plants should be timed to come out if the refrigerator at the
coolest part of the year - say December. This will give you the most
life and production from these plants.
Home ** What's New? ** How It All Started
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** Rose and Perennial Court * Rose Update Feb 2003 * Front Garden Update 2008-9 * Behind the Wall * Herb Circle * Tropical Edibles
Area ** New! Growing
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* Ecological Gardening
* Index of Plants and Techniques Featured * Annual Vegetable Chart * Long Lasting Markers: Jewelry for Your Plants * Build a Gardening Notebook
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